describe disposal of fullness - gathering, easing, topstitching
Gathering and easing will dispose of fullness. Top stitching will not.
The term "disposal of fullness" refers to a technique used in sewing and garment construction to remove excess fabric and create a desired shape or fit. It typically involves gathering, easing, and topstitching. Let's break down each step in detail:
1. Gathering: Gathering is a method used to reduce the width of a fabric or garment section and create controlled fullness. It involves stitching one or more rows of long, evenly spaced stitches near the edge of the fabric where fullness needs to be reduced. To gather fabric, follow these steps:
a. Determine where you want the fullness to be gathered and mark it with pins or tailor's chalk.
b. Set your sewing machine to a long stitch length (around 4mm) and a medium tension.
c. Sew a straight line within the seam allowance, close to the marked area, using a backstitch at the beginning and the end. It is best to sew two parallel lines for added security.
d. Leave long thread tails at both ends of the stitches. Do not backstitch or lock the stitches.
e. Holding one set of thread tails, gently start to push the fabric along the threads to create gathers, evenly distributing the fullness as desired.
f. Once your fabric is gathered to the desired length to match the adjoining piece, knot or secure the thread tails to hold the gathers in place.
2. Easing: Easing is used to join two fabric sections together when one has more length or fullness than the other. Unlike gathering, which gathers fabric onto itself, easing distributes the extra fabric along the seam line to create a smooth transition. Follow these steps to ease fabric:
a. Pin the two fabric sections together, keeping the section with extra fullness on top.
b. Distribute the extra fabric evenly by gently stretching or pushing it along the seam line as you pin.
c. Sew the pieces together slowly, making sure to distribute the fullness evenly by controlling the fabric while stitching. Use a regular stitch length and backstitch at the beginning and the end.
3. Topstitching: Topstitching is a decorative or functional row of stitches usually sewn on the right side of the fabric. It is often used to secure seam allowances in place or add a finished look. To topstitch, follow these steps:
a. Set your sewing machine to a regular stitch length between 2-3mm.
b. Align the fabric under the presser foot, keeping the edge of the fabric aligned with a seam guide or by using the edge of the presser foot as a reference.
c. Begin sewing, staying close to the edge of the fabric, and sew in a straight line, removing the pins as you go.
d. Pivot at corners or curves, and continue sewing until you reach the end of the desired area.
e. Backstitch at the beginning and the end to secure the topstitching in place.
By following these steps for gathering, easing, and topstitching, you will be able to handle fullness effectively in your sewing projects.