Method of disposal of fullness?
How to draw a French seam ?
Reasons for disposing fullness
1. Method of disposal of fullness: When it comes to disposing of fullness in sewing, there are a few common methods: gathering, pleating, and darts.
- Gathering: This method involves evenly distributing excess fabric along a seam or edge, creating small folds that result in a gathered effect. Gathering can be done by hand sewing or using a sewing machine with a gathering foot or by adjusting the tension on the machine. The gathered fabric can be dispersed throughout the garment or concentrated in specific areas depending on the desired style.
- Pleating: Pleats involve folding the fabric to create neat and controlled folds. There are different types of pleats, including knife pleats, box pleats, and inverted pleats. The fabric is folded and stitched in place to secure the pleats. Pleats are often used in skirts, dresses, and sleeves to add texture and movement.
- Darts: Darts are triangular folds of fabric that are stitched in place to shape the garment to fit the body. They are commonly used in areas like the bust, waist, and hips to eliminate excess fabric and create a more tailored fit.
The choice of disposal method depends on the desired design, fabric type, and personal preference.
2. How to draw a French seam: A French seam is a neat and tidy way to enclose raw edges within a garment, creating a clean finish on the inside. Here's how to draw a French seam:
Step 1: Place the fabric pieces with the wrong sides together. The seam allowance will be narrower than usual (usually around 1/4 inch or 6mm).
Step 2: Stitch the seam with a straight stitch, ensuring your seam allowance is accurate.
Step 3: Trim the seam allowance back to approximately 1/8 inch (3mm). Be careful not to trim the sewn seam.
Step 4: Press the seam open.
Step 5: Fold the fabric along the stitched seam line, enclosing the raw edges within the fold.
Step 6: Press the folded seam down, keeping the raw edges fully enclosed.
Step 7: Stitch along the folded edge to secure the French seam.
Note: French seams are commonly used on lightweight or sheer fabrics, as they provide a clean and finished look without any visible raw edges.
3. Reasons for disposing fullness: There are various reasons for disposing of fullness in sewing and garment construction. Some common reasons include:
- Aesthetics: Fullness in specific areas of a garment can be intentionally manipulated or disposed of to create a desired silhouette or style. For example, a fitted waistline might require disposing of fullness through darts or pleats to achieve a tailored look, while a flowy skirt might involve gathering or pleating to create volume.
- Fit: Disposing of fullness is often necessary to achieve a proper fit. Too much excess fabric in certain areas can result in a loose or baggy fit, while too little fullness can make a garment feel tight or restrictive. By purposefully disposing of excess fabric through techniques like darts or gathering, the garment can be tailored to fit the body shape more accurately.
- Comfort: Removing excess fullness from specific areas can improve the comfort of the garment. For example, reducing fullness around the armpit area in a sleeveless top can prevent gaping or rubbing.
- Style and design elements: Fullness can be manipulated to enhance certain design elements or detailing of a garment. For instance, disposing of fullness strategically in the form of pleats or gathers can add visual interest, texture, or create a more flattering shape.
Overall, disposing of fullness is an essential technique in sewing and garment construction, allowing for customization, fit, style, and comfort to be achieved in the final product.