science pls help

Which of the following causes the formation of surf on a breaking wave?

Beach erosion
Low wind speeds
Deposition of sand on a beach
Friction with the ocean bottom at the coast

is it d pls help me

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asked by Oscar
  1. Well, yes sort of

    as a deep water wave approaches shallow water it slows down, not really due to friction but due to the theoretical velocity of waves in deep and shallow water.
    In deep water
    V = k sqrt (wavelength)
    in shallow water
    V = K sqrt (water depth)

    the transition from deep to shallow starts when the depth is about half a wavelength
    The waves therefore slow down. Since the same number land per minute, that means shorter and steeper.
    Therefore I would pick D as the closest to a correct answer, but whoever wrote the question did not know a lot about ocean surface waves.

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    posted by Damon

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