what are legumes plants and what are the non legume plats called

Legumes are a type of plant that belongs to the family Fabaceae. They are known for their ability to fix nitrogen in the soil through a symbiotic relationship with bacteria in their root nodules. Legumes include a variety of crops such as beans, peas, lentils, chickpeas, and alfalfa.

Non-legume plants are called non-legumes or non-leguminous plants. These plants do not have the ability to fix nitrogen in the soil like legumes do. Examples of non-legume plants include grains like wheat, rice, barley, corn, and sorghum, as well as vegetables like tomatoes, broccoli, carrots, and lettuce.

what is fertilizer made of

Fertilizers are typically made up of a combination of nutrients that are essential for plants' growth and development. These nutrients include:

1. Nitrogen (N): This nutrient is important for leaf and stem growth.
2. Phosphorus (P): Phosphorus is essential for root development, flowering, and fruiting.
3. Potassium (K): Potassium promotes overall plant health, water regulation, and disease resistance.
4. Secondary macronutrients: Calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg), and sulfur (S) are also vital for plant growth, albeit in lower quantities compared to N, P, and K.
5. Micronutrients: These include essential trace elements like iron (Fe), manganese (Mn), copper (Cu), zinc (Zn), boron (B), molybdenum (Mo), and nickel (Ni), which are required in small amounts for proper plant functioning.

Fertilizers can be manufactured by combining these nutrients in various ratios and forms, such as as a granular, liquid, or slow-release product. Naturally occurring sources such as animal manure, compost, and plant residues can also be used as organic fertilizers.

how to make organic fertilizer the whole process

Making organic fertilizer typically involves several steps. Here's a general outline of the process:

1. Collect organic materials: Start by gathering organic materials such as kitchen scraps, yard waste (leaves, grass clippings), animal manure (from herbivores like cows, horses, or chickens), and plant residues.

2. Composting: Composting is a natural decomposition process that turns organic waste into nutrient-rich compost. Create a compost pile or use a compost bin in your yard. Layer the materials, making sure to maintain a balance between "green" (nitrogen-rich) and "brown" (carbon-rich) materials. Green materials include fresh grass clippings and kitchen scraps, while brown materials consist of dry leaves, straw, or shredded paper. Additionally, occasional turning or mixing of the pile helps with aeration and decomposition.

3. Add Amendments: To enhance the nutrient content of your compost, consider adding amendments like rock phosphate, bone meal, kelp meal, or eggshells. These ingredients can provide additional phosphorus, calcium, and trace minerals to the final fertilizer.

4. Allow decomposition: The compost pile needs time to decompose properly. This process may take several weeks to several months, depending on the conditions and ingredients. Ensure the pile is kept moist but not soaking wet, and periodically turn or mix the pile to aid in decomposition.

5. Screening and storage: Once the compost has fully decomposed into a dark, crumbly material with an earthy smell, screen it to remove any large particles or debris. Store the finished compost in a cool, dry place, ready to be used as fertilizer.

6. Application: Use the organic fertilizer by spreading it on your garden beds, around plants, or incorporating it into the soil before planting. Alternatively, you can create compost tea by steeping a portion of the compost in water, then watering your plants with the nutrient-rich liquid.

Remember, the specifics of the process may vary depending on the organic materials available and personal preferences.

how to make bokashi bio fertilizer

To make bokashi bio fertilizer, you will need a bokashi bran or bokashi starter culture, airtight container, and organic waste. Here's a step-by-step guide:

1. Collect organic waste: Gather kitchen scraps like fruit and vegetable peels, coffee grounds, tea leaves, eggshells, and small amounts of cooked food waste. Avoid using meat, dairy, oily foods, and large quantities of cooked food.

2. Layer the organic waste: Place a layer of organic waste in the bottom of your airtight container. Sprinkle a handful of bokashi bran or sprinkle the bokashi starter culture (as per its instructions) onto the waste. Ensure the waste is evenly covered.

3. Press the waste down: Use a spatula or other utensil to press down the waste firmly, removing any air pockets. Repeat the layering and pressing process until the container is full, leaving a small gap at the top.

4. Seal the container: Close the airtight container tightly to create an anaerobic environment. This prevents the entry of oxygen, which is crucial for the fermentation process.

5. Fermentation process: Store the container in a cool, dark place away from direct sunlight. During fermentation, gas may be produced, so you may need to occasionally release any built-up pressure by briefly opening the container slightly.

6. Fermentation period: Allow the organic waste to ferment in the bokashi bin for about 2-4 weeks. The exact duration may vary depending on the brand of bokashi used.

7. Bury or incorporate into soil: After the fermentation period, the waste is no longer recognizable and has a pickled, slightly sour odor. This fermented waste, called bokashi pre-compost, can be buried in your garden beds or mixed into the soil. Create a trench or hole, place the bokashi pre-compost, and cover it with soil. Alternatively, you can add the pre-compost to compost piles or worm bins for further decomposition before using it as fertilizer.

8. Allow curing: After burying the bokashi pre-compost, allow it to cure in the soil for a couple of weeks before planting or seeding in the area.

Please note that bokashi fermentation is a specific method of composting that involves fermentation and not complete decomposition. The final product is not considered mature compost but can be applied to enrich the soil and promote microbial activity.