college physics

A surfing physicist paddles out beyond the breaking surf to a deep-water region where the ocean waves are sinusoidal (can obey a sine or cosine function) in shape, with crest 14 m apart. The surfer rises a vertical distance 3.6 m from wave trough to crest, a process that takes 1.5s. Find the wave speed, and describe it with an equation. Take a wave crest to be at x=0 at time = 0, with the positive x direction toward the open ocean.

  1. 👍 0
  2. 👎 0
  3. 👁 181
asked by Adam
  1. The amplitude is A = 1.8 m, and the wavelength is L = 14 m. The period is P = 3.0 s. Use a cosine function to make the deflection a crest at t = 0 and x = 0.

    y = A cos [2 pi (t/P - x/L]

    1. 👍 0
    2. 👎 0
    posted by drwls

Respond to this Question

First Name

Your Response

Similar Questions

  1. oceanography

    i want to make sure i am answering this correctly. 1) the primary source of energy for ocean currents and waves is: the sun 2)as a wave passes in deep water, water parcels move in: almost closed circular orbits 3)which of the

    asked by student on August 8, 2008
  2. science pls help

    Which of the following causes the formation of surf on a breaking wave? Beach erosion Low wind speeds Deposition of sand on a beach Friction with the ocean bottom at the coast is it d pls help me

    asked by Oscar on April 15, 2016
  3. Algebra

    (I know I already asked this question but I can't find it so I'm asking it again) A surfer paddles out past breaking waves, rides a wave, paddles back out past the breaking waves, rides another wave back to the beach. Draw a

    asked by PicturesDon'tChangeThePeopleInsideOfThemDo on November 5, 2017
  4. math

    as tsunamis travel from the deep ocean to more shallow water, they slow down. at a dept of 1,000 meters they travel at 356 kilometers per hour. this is 400 kilometers per hour slower than their speed in deeper ocean water. how

    asked by sarah on November 19, 2009
  5. Math

    A surfer paddles out past breaking waves, rides a wave, paddles back out past the breaking waves, rides another wave back to the beach. Draw a sketch of a graph (with labels) that shows the surfer’s possible distance from the

    asked by PicturesDon'tChangeThePeopleInsideOfThemDo on October 31, 2017
  6. physic

    mars once may have had an ocean 0.50 km deep. the acceleration due to gravity on mars is 0.379g, and we shall assume (unrealistically) the consisted of fresh water. a)what would be the guage pressure(in Pa)at the bottem of this

    asked by janae on July 20, 2010
  7. physics

    It is reasonable to assume that the bulk modulus of blood is about the same as that of water (2.20 GPa). As one goes deeper and deeper in the ocean, the pressure increases by 1.0*10^4 Pa for every meter below the surface. If a

    asked by Erin on April 13, 2008
  8. chemistry

    trade winds blow from east to west across the pacific ocean. The winds move surface waters westward across the ocean.this causes deeper, colder water to rise to the surface along the coast.this upwelling of deep ocean waters bring

    asked by michael on January 19, 2012
  9. text structure

    People have used various methods to measure the depth of the ocean. Long ago sailors lowered a rope over the side of the ship. When the rope touched the bottom,they knew how deep the water was. Today scientists measure the depth

    asked by priscilla on December 1, 2010
  10. algebra/ word problem

    Justin paddles his kayak 6 miles upstream in 1,5 hours. he turns around and paddles downstream, the same distance, in only 1 hour. What is the rate in still water and what is the rate of the water's current

    asked by lulu on January 9, 2013

More Similar Questions