Posted by **Adam** on Friday, May 14, 2010 at 2:57pm.

A surfing physicist paddles out beyond the breaking surf to a deep-water region where the ocean waves are sinusoidal (can obey a sine or cosine function) in shape, with crest 14 m apart. The surfer rises a vertical distance 3.6 m from wave trough to crest, a process that takes 1.5s. Find the wave speed, and describe it with an equation. Take a wave crest to be at x=0 at time = 0, with the positive x direction toward the open ocean.

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